The card machine is on its way to the table, and neither person is looking at it. Two coffees and a shared plate of something fried have come to a modest sum, and the sum bothers nobody. What bothers them is the two seconds in which each tries to work out what reaching for a wallet will say.

It happens on millions of evenings. The question underneath, who should pay on the first date, has never been settled so much as postponed. Etiquette columns have offered answers for a century, and couples have ignored most of them. What has changed is that the old default has lost its footing while nothing sturdy has taken its place.

An old rule with a shrinking footing

For a long time the answer was simple, and lopsided. The man asked, the man chose the place, the man paid. The arrangement made a certain sense when the two people in the restaurant had very different earning power and very different social permission to take the first step. It was also a script, which meant nobody had to think.

Scripts outlive the conditions that produced them. Plenty of people still expect whoever issued the invitation to cover the evening, and plenty of men still feel a flush of failure when they don't. Plenty of women, meanwhile, report offering to split and then watching the offer treated as a small rejection. Nobody has measured this well, to my knowledge, and I'd distrust anyone who claims to know the proportions. The awkwardness is real enough, though, that people plan around it, sometimes by picking a cheaper venue purely to shrink the stakes.

The gender-neutral version of the old rule says that whoever asks, pays. It's tidy. It also punishes the shy and rewards whoever sends the first message, which is hardly a virtue worth subsidising.

What the bill is really saying

A seemingly unrelated debate helps here. Economists have spent years picking at why we tip in some places and not in others. One recent Guardian examination of takeout tipping argues that a tip makes sense when the customer knows something the employer doesn't: how fast the server moved, how big a mess the hotel guest left behind. The tip is the customer's verdict, delivered in person, which is why a low one feels confrontational. You are grading someone to their face.

A first-date bill works on a similar principle, with the roles scrambled. Each person is customer and server at once, and each is the only one who knows how the evening went. Paying is a verdict too. Picking up the whole check can mean I enjoyed this and want another. It can just as easily mean I'd like this to end cleanly with nothing owed. Splitting can read as respect between equals, or as a polite shrug. The same gesture carries opposite meanings, and the person receiving it has to guess which was intended.

That is the freeze. The money is trivial; what it signals is not.

What struck me in the tipping piece is a second point that applies here, almost uncomfortably. When a takeout counter prompts you for a tip, the argument runs, the business is often raising its effective price while hoping you'll take it for a cultural shift rather than a markup. Something similar happens when a restaurant is chosen. The person who proposes the pricey place has set the cost of the evening before anyone has agreed to anything. If they then expect the other person to split it, the invitation was a quiet price rise delivered after the order. Whoever picks the venue is, in effect, setting the menu for both. That is an argument for the chooser to carry more of the bill, or at least to choose with the other person's wallet in mind.

I'd go further. The cleanest rule I can defend is a plain one: the person who selected the place should be ready to pay for it, and should say so before the night, not at the table. "My treat, I picked somewhere nice" costs nothing to say and removes the guessing. If the other person insists on paying a share, they can. Offering is the courtesy, and accepting graciously is the other half.

There is a counterweight, and it deserves a fair hearing. Critics of the host-pays rule say it quietly turns generosity into an obligation, with the payer expecting something back, whether warmth, a second date or worse. That expectation is where an ordinary evening curdles. Anyone who pays and then keeps a ledger has bought a transaction, not a date, and the other person is entitled to refuse the terms. Paying should buy nothing except the pleasure of having paid.

The cost of an evening in a tight year

The arithmetic has shifted underneath the etiquette. John Healey's first Budget, delivered on 28 October, offered a single £100 contribution toward energy costs, limited to England and to homes in the lower council tax bands, A through D, with the money raised through a heavier levy on bank profits, as the BBC reported. The Office for Budget Responsibility, in the same round of forecasts, said households would be little better off than before the pandemic even a decade on. Its chair, David Miles, called that outlook "pretty grim".

Nobody goes on a date with a Treasury forecast in mind. But people do go with a bank balance in mind, and a decade of flat living standards makes a restaurant bill feel heavier than the figure printed on it. A person who suggests splitting may simply be counting. A person who insists on paying may be spending money they'd rather keep. Reading either as a statement about character, or about interest, is a mistake the squeeze makes easy.

That is one reason the choice of venue matters more than the question of who settles up. A cheap, pleasant evening lets both people be generous without anyone being stretched. A £90 dinner on a first meeting asks a great deal of two strangers.

Money habits show up early

There is a reason these small moments get scrutinised, and vanity is only part of it. Money is where couples disagree most durably, and the early signs tend to show long before a joint account exists.

A Guardian reader forum on financial control in relationships, published in 2014, cited a survey of about 1,000 Americans in which one in 10 described their partner as a financial bully. The readers who responded were split on where the line sat. Some saw checking a partner's spending as plain budgeting. One, Nicole, said she called it "living together". Others described a spouse who ran up a joint debt to $23,000 after being asked to cut back, which no one would call budgeting.

That is marriage, and a first date is a long way from it. The spectrum is the same, though. Some people treat money as a shared project, some as a scoreboard, some as a lever, and the way someone handles a £40 bill on a Thursday night is a very small sample of those instincts. An unreliable one, certainly. A person who grabs the check might be generous or might be establishing who's in charge. One who splits to the penny might be fair or might be keeping accounts. Watching how they react when you offer to pay, or let them, tells you more than the gesture itself.

A workable rule, and the next date

So, who should pay on the first date? The most defensible answer is that whoever chose the venue should be prepared to cover it, announced in advance, with the other person free to offer a share or pick up the next round. If both chose together, split it, or alternate drinks and dinner. If one earns far more, the better-off person can say so lightly and cover the larger share without ceremony. None of this is complicated. All of it needs saying out loud, which is the part people avoid.

The second date is where the real settlement happens. Taking turns is a quiet agreement that the relationship runs on reciprocity rather than on a scorecard or a script. If it never comes up again, that is information. If one person keeps paying and the other keeps letting them, that is information too. The first bill is only the first line of a longer set of accounts, and most people would rather have it open and awkward early, with the card machine still hovering, than discover it late.